Monday, May 6, 2013

Wine Review: 2012 Casa di Carollo Carménère


Though Phylloxera wiped out the majority French crops in the 1870s, the Carménère grape found a new home and, today, is grown primarily in Chile. In fact, it is considered to be “the” grape Chile has now become famous for growing.  Far from Chile, however, in the foothills of Berkshire County, Massachusetts, a private winemaker recently produced a delightful wine from this ancient, European grape. Though Carménère is used mostly as a blending grape, when pure Carménère is made, the grapes must be harvested at their optimal ripeness, less the resultant wine be less-than-ideal.  In short, timing is crucial.

Sean Carollo, of Casa di Carollo, has produced a satisfying Carménère that successfully captures the grape’s unique personality.  While Carménère is often dark red in color, the more ruby color of this wine denotes a recent vintage, full of vigor.  The nose is clean and sound, with sufficient aromas of cherry, and wild berries such as blueberries and strawberries.  In fact, there is also a curious hint of peach, and strawberry jam.

Though the wine has a slightly-nervy acidity, its well-integrated tannins are quite soft.  Tastes of cherry, red plumb, sweet fruits, earthy notes, and a kick of spice tantalize the tongue.  The finish, though extremely short, exposes a subtle hint of dark chocolate and tobacco.  If this wine has a weakness, it is the short length of its finish.

A good, medium bodied Carménère, this versatile wine pairs nicely with lamb, chicken, duck, and (my favorite) wild boar.  It is especially good when accompanying hearty stews and spicy dishes.  Serve it with stuffed peppers, eggplant, or sweet potatoes.   Bistecca alla fiorentina, ratatouille, beef bourguignon, rack of lamb, and BBQ ribs also make fabulous pairings.

Carménère is often enjoyed young. Drink the 2012 Casa di Carollo Carménère, now!

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