Monday, May 6, 2013

Wine Review: 2012 Casa di Carollo Carménère


Though Phylloxera wiped out the majority French crops in the 1870s, the Carménère grape found a new home and, today, is grown primarily in Chile. In fact, it is considered to be “the” grape Chile has now become famous for growing.  Far from Chile, however, in the foothills of Berkshire County, Massachusetts, a private winemaker recently produced a delightful wine from this ancient, European grape. Though Carménère is used mostly as a blending grape, when pure Carménère is made, the grapes must be harvested at their optimal ripeness, less the resultant wine be less-than-ideal.  In short, timing is crucial.

Sean Carollo, of Casa di Carollo, has produced a satisfying Carménère that successfully captures the grape’s unique personality.  While Carménère is often dark red in color, the more ruby color of this wine denotes a recent vintage, full of vigor.  The nose is clean and sound, with sufficient aromas of cherry, and wild berries such as blueberries and strawberries.  In fact, there is also a curious hint of peach, and strawberry jam.

Though the wine has a slightly-nervy acidity, its well-integrated tannins are quite soft.  Tastes of cherry, red plumb, sweet fruits, earthy notes, and a kick of spice tantalize the tongue.  The finish, though extremely short, exposes a subtle hint of dark chocolate and tobacco.  If this wine has a weakness, it is the short length of its finish.

A good, medium bodied Carménère, this versatile wine pairs nicely with lamb, chicken, duck, and (my favorite) wild boar.  It is especially good when accompanying hearty stews and spicy dishes.  Serve it with stuffed peppers, eggplant, or sweet potatoes.   Bistecca alla fiorentina, ratatouille, beef bourguignon, rack of lamb, and BBQ ribs also make fabulous pairings.

Carménère is often enjoyed young. Drink the 2012 Casa di Carollo Carménère, now!

Saturday, January 26, 2013


Wine Review: 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon

I’ve read several negative reviews about the 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon. I don’t agree with them, particularly because many reviewers drank the wine too early. The current color of this dark, shiny, inky wine is quite appropriate for its age. If consumed between now and 2015, this wine will not disappoint, but you must let it breathe! The oaky nose is sufficient and clean, boasting strong redcurrant and blackberry aromas, hints of elderberry, and even a little gooseberry. On the palate, this wine offers a sensational array of dark fruit, tobacco, and black cherry flavors. Its well-integrated tannins provide for a rich, meaty, satisfying finish. Overall, the 2009 Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon is quite a harmonious wine, in spite of its low price. A definite buy for a casual evening in; excellent if paired with red meat dishes, or spicy bean burgers. I give it 88 points.

Thursday, January 17, 2013


Wine Review: NV Tenuta Santomè Prosecco Extra Dry  

I’m not usually a fan of prosecco; it often lacks complexity on its own, and is therefore frequently paired with light appetizers. This synergy allows many mediocre bottles of prosecco to pass by unscrutinized. I did, however, enjoy a surprisingly-fine bottle of prosecco the other night: NV Tenuta Santomè Prosecco Extra Dry.        

Its appearance is a clear, pale yellow, with a charming, consistent sparkle (and slightly-coarse bubbles.) The nose is clean, with an intense bouquet aroma. Strong, refreshing notes of honey, honeysuckle, and even a hint of mint are immediately apparent. The taste is crisp and refreshing (as one should expect), with balanced acidity, and a charming array of honey, peach, melon, and other fruits. The finish is quite delightful, with a soft, extra honey burst at the finale.

As a wine, I give it 89 points, but, compared to other proseccos on the market, I rate it 91 points: a definite buy!